🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.